DigiPi screen
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DigiPi Review

Let me begin this review with some context. I am a firm believer in the need for emergency communications. I also know that voice alone is an inefficient way to convey information. Digital modes let us send that information quicker, without the need to spell things phonetically. This allows for more accurate communications, which means help gets where it needs to be faster. We have modes that can even cut through noise.

To be efficient with these tools, we need to practice. Given the high entry price of ham radio, I wanted to find something that offers the experience and practice we need without breaking the bank.

TL;DR: great device, inexpensive, and solid. Easy to assemble and use. It is tiny, uses little power, and can easily be added to a go kit.

This review is not sponsored, nor has the creator of DigiPi KM6LYN reviewed it’s content prior to publication.

DigiPi allows you to use an inexpensive Pi Zero 2 W as a base, rather than needing a computer and sound device (like a Signal Link). I am fortunate that my IC-7100 allows for direct connection between the radio and the computer (and Pi) via a USB cable, but I still needed to get a used laptop. The DigiPi setup I have costs under $100. In addition to what you see below, you will need a Micro SD, a way to connect that to your computer, a way to image the card (I use Raspberry Pi Imager), a cable for your radio, and a power supply.

Parts
Here you see the Pi Zero 2 W, screen, case, and micro USB to USB A

DigiPi supports the following digital modes: APRS (including sending a message to a phone as a text), WinLink, WSJTX (FT8 and WSPR), FLDigi, and JS8Call.

I have been using this device, I have sent a text message to a phone, sent several WinLink messages (including a form), sent FT8, WSPR, and FLDigi. All worked perfectly. Each service worked exactly like it did on my laptop. The lone exception is that I can use VaraHF with WinLink on my laptop and have to use ARDOP here (Vara cannot run on a Pi, unless you want to experiment and emergencies require reliability). I have not attempted P2P connections on either, so I cannot speak to that performance.

They have really worked on making the setup as easy as possible, so, being a computer system administrator, I messed with settings that were already configured. That means you will have an easier time. Thanks to KM6LYW for this software.

I’ll include links below, but to make this as simple as possible, I got a Pi Zero with the pins already soldered in place. Assembly was simple:
Place the case (aluminum to allow for easy cooling of the Pi) on top of the Pi.
Place the spacer (the I shape) under the Pi
Place the base on the I
Fit the screen in place all the way to the left (the device oriented with the pins farthest from you)
Using the provided Allen wrench, screw the device together.
The device is now assembled onto the software.

You get the software from the Patreon site. That and all videos can be found at https://digipi.org. I used the Raspberry Pi Imager to set up my Micro SD. Then you insert the card and fire it up. Using it as a hotspot, you can set up your WiFi (more on that in the videos at DigiPi).

Once you have it configured, you only need a tablet or your phone to begin using the digital modes. If you are using the phone, I highly recommend getting a folding Bluetooth keyboard to make it much easier to type. You can find used tablets (remember, you don’t need cell service for this), which would make its use even easier.

This software and setup make it very easy and inexpensive to enter the realm of digital modes on ham radio, allowing everyone to get much-needed practice. In an emergency, time matters, and the more practice we get, the smoother and quicker our communications will be. To that end, if you are looking to have your device assembled and ready for configuration, let me know, and I will get you set up. If you are a club interested in setting up your members for success, let me know. In an emergency, we will need operators almost everywhere and reserves to allow everyone to get rest.

Notes

VT Specific

WinLink connections will use ARDOP. You will need to find a server (unless you do peer-to-peer). You can find some via aprs.fi or WinLink (choose ARDOP at the top), but the ones I have had good luck with are (use the RMS list button in the connect dialog to select it):
WQ2H on 40 meters
KN2LQN on 80 meters
N3MEL-11 on 80 meters
W2QH on 80 meters
WD10 on 80 meters
and DON’T forget to save the ones you have good luck with as an alias to make things easier.

Size in inches
Size in CM

Parts

I receive nothing from the use of these links; Amazon ones are just used for convenience.

Raspberry Pi Zero 2 W
Display
Heat sink case
Micro SD Card
Power Supply
Micro USB to USB-A
Raspberry Pi Imager
DigiPi Software (and instructions)
Please note that there is a very slim possibility that the back of the display could contact the case so you may want to stick something non-conductive to the back of that part.

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